Karakoram Highway Road Trip Guide: Islamabad to Khunjerab Pass

The Karakoram Highway — the KKH — is not just a road. It is one of the engineering wonders of the modern world: 1,300 kilometres of asphalt and gravel carved through the Karakoram, Hindukush, and Himalayan ranges, connecting Islamabad to Kashgar in western China across the Khunjerab Pass at 4,693 metres. It took 20,000 Pakistani and Chinese workers two decades to build, and more than 800 of them died doing it.

Today it is one of the great road journeys on earth. The scenery is extraordinary — the Indus Gorge, the Karakoram peaks, the turquoise waters of Attabad Lake, the apricot orchards of Hunza — and the road passes through communities that have been trading along this corridor since the Silk Road era. This guide covers everything you need to plan a road trip on the KKH, whether you are driving yourself or travelling with a driver.

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The Route: An Overview

The KKH runs from Hasan Abdal, near Islamabad, to the Khunjerab Pass on the Chinese border — a distance of approximately 1,300 kilometres on the Pakistan side. Most travellers begin in Islamabad and end at Khunjerab, returning the same way or continuing into China.

The road passes through four distinct zones:

Islamabad to Besham (300km): The first stretch follows the Indus River north through the Hazara region. The road is wide and well-maintained for the first 150 kilometres, then narrows as it enters the Indus Gorge. This section is the least dramatic scenically but sets the tone — the river is already impressive, and the mountains are beginning to close in.

Besham to Chilas (200km): The Indus Gorge proper. The river cuts through some of the deepest gorges on earth here, and the road clings to the cliff face above it. This is also where the ancient rock carvings begin — thousands of petroglyphs and inscriptions left by Silk Road travellers over 2,000 years, concentrated around Chilas and Shatial.

Chilas to Gilgit (130km): The road passes through Nanga Parbat territory — the 8,126-metre peak is visible from the road on a clear day, rising almost 7,000 metres above the valley floor in one of the most dramatic vertical rises on earth. Gilgit is the administrative capital of Gilgit-Baltistan and the main hub for onward travel.

Gilgit to Khunjerab Pass (200km): The finest section of the highway. The road follows the Hunza River north through Hunza Valley — Karimabad, Altit, Gulmit, Passu — before climbing to the Khunjerab Pass. The Passu Cones, the Attabad Lake, and the views of Rakaposhi and Ultar Sar make this the most photographed stretch of road in Pakistan.

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Best Time to Travel

The KKH is open year-round between Islamabad and Gilgit, but the northern section — Gilgit to Khunjerab — is seasonal.

Khunjerab Pass: Open approximately May to November, depending on snowfall. The official opening date varies by year; check with the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Authority before planning a visit to the pass itself.

Peak season (June–September): The entire highway is open, the weather is stable, and the scenery is at its most accessible. This is the busiest period — expect company at the main viewpoints and book accommodation in Hunza well in advance.

Shoulder season (April–May, October): Excellent conditions on the lower highway; the Hunza section is beautiful in spring blossom (late March to mid-April) and autumn foliage (October). The Khunjerab Pass may be restricted in early April and late October.

Winter (November–March): The highway between Islamabad and Gilgit remains open, and the lower Hunza valley is accessible. The Khunjerab Pass is closed. Winter travel on the KKH is a genuinely different experience — quiet, cold, and atmospheric — but requires preparation and flexibility.

For a detailed breakdown of seasonal conditions in Hunza specifically, see our best time to visit Hunza Valley guide.

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Driving Conditions: What to Expect

Road Quality

The KKH is not a motorway. Road quality varies enormously along its length, and conditions change from year to year as sections are upgraded, damaged by landslides, or washed out by floods.

Islamabad to Besham: Generally good. Dual carriageway for the first 80 kilometres, then a well-maintained two-lane road.

Besham to Chilas: Variable. The Indus Gorge section has been subject to repeated landslide damage and is under ongoing reconstruction in several places. Expect rough patches, temporary diversions, and occasional single-lane sections controlled by flag men.

Chilas to Gilgit: Improving. The China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) upgrade programme has significantly improved this section in recent years, though work is ongoing.

Gilgit to Khunjerab: The most recently upgraded section. The road is generally good between Gilgit and Hunza; north of Gulmit it becomes narrower and more demanding.

Landslides

Landslides are the primary hazard on the KKH, particularly in the Indus Gorge section and north of Hunza. They can close the road for hours or days. The monsoon season (July–August) brings the highest risk, but landslides can occur at any time of year.

The practical response: build flexibility into your itinerary. A road trip that has no slack days will be disrupted. We recommend planning for one unscheduled delay day per week of travel.

Self-Drive vs. Hired Driver

Self-drive is possible on the KKH — it is a public road and there are no restrictions on foreign-registered or rented vehicles. However, most experienced travellers opt for a hired driver for several reasons:

• Local drivers know the road, the hazards, and the diversions
• Navigating the Indus Gorge section in an unfamiliar vehicle is genuinely demanding
• A local driver can communicate with road crews, police checkpoints, and guesthouse owners in Urdu and local languages
• If the vehicle breaks down, a local driver has the contacts to arrange repairs

If you do drive yourself, a 4WD vehicle with high clearance is strongly recommended for the section north of Gilgit. A standard saloon car can manage the highway in good conditions but will struggle on rough diversions and mountain tracks.

Our Karakoram Highway Explorer tour includes a private vehicle and experienced driver throughout, with the flexibility to stop wherever the road demands it.

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Scenic Stops: The Highlights

Taxila (35km from Islamabad)

The first major stop on the KKH is also one of the most historically significant. Taxila was a major centre of Gandharan civilisation and one of the great cities of the ancient world — Alexander the Great passed through here in 326 BC. The archaeological site contains Buddhist monasteries, stupas, and a museum with an outstanding collection of Gandharan sculpture. Allow two to three hours.

Besham and the Indus Gorge

Besham is the last major town before the road enters the gorge proper. Stock up on fuel and supplies here. The gorge itself — the next 200 kilometres — is the most dramatic section of the lower highway. The Indus runs fast and brown far below, and the walls of the gorge rise thousands of metres on either side.

Chilas Rock Carvings

The area around Chilas contains the largest concentration of ancient rock carvings in the world — an estimated 50,000 petroglyphs and inscriptions spanning 2,000 years of Silk Road history. The main sites are signposted from the highway. The Chilas Bridge site, a short walk from the road, is the most accessible and includes Buddhist stupas, ibex carvings, and inscriptions in Kharosthi, Brahmi, and Sogdian scripts.

Nanga Parbat Viewpoint (Raikot Bridge)

Approximately 60 kilometres east of Chilas, the Raikot Bridge crosses the Indus at the point where the Fairy Meadows road branches off towards the north face of Nanga Parbat. The peak is visible from the bridge on a clear morning — a wall of ice and rock rising almost vertically from the valley floor. This is one of the most dramatic mountain views accessible from a paved road anywhere in the world.

Gilgit

Gilgit is the administrative capital of Gilgit-Baltistan and a natural overnight stop. The bazaar is worth an hour of exploration — it has a distinctly Central Asian character, with dried fruit and nut stalls, carpet shops, and the occasional antique dealer. The Kargah Buddha, a 7th-century rock carving on the hillside above town, is a 20-minute drive from the centre.

Rakaposhi Viewpoint

Between Gilgit and Hunza, the road passes the base of Rakaposhi (7,788m) — one of the most beautiful mountains in the Karakoram. The standard viewpoint is at Minapin, where a short walk brings you to a terrace with an unobstructed view of the peak's south face. On a clear morning, the reflection of Rakaposhi in the irrigation channels below is one of the finest mountain photographs in Pakistan.

Hunza Valley: Karimabad and Beyond

Hunza Valley is the centrepiece of any KKH road trip. Allow a minimum of two nights — three is better. The key stops:

• Baltit Fort: The 700-year-old fort above Karimabad, recently restored, with extraordinary views across the valley
• Altit Fort: Older and less visited than Baltit, with a more intimate atmosphere and a well-preserved village below
• Eagle's Nest: A viewpoint above Duikar village with a 360-degree panorama of the Karakoram peaks
• Attabad Lake: The turquoise reservoir created by a 2010 landslide, 40 kilometres north of Karimabad — a boat crossing is available

Passu Cones

North of Hunza, the Passu Cones — a row of jagged granite spires rising above the valley — are among the most photographed formations in Pakistan. The suspension bridge at Hussaini, a short walk from the highway, is a classic KKH photograph: a rickety rope bridge over the Hunza River with the Cones behind it.

Khunjerab Pass (4,693m)

The pass itself is the highest paved international border crossing in the world. The landscape is high-altitude steppe — treeless, windswept, and vast. Marco Polo sheep are occasionally visible on the slopes above the road. The border post is open to tourists during daylight hours when the pass is in season; you do not need a Chinese visa to visit the Pakistan side of the border.

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Accommodation

Islamabad

Islamabad has a full range of accommodation from international business hotels to guesthouses. The Serena Hotel is the traditional choice for travellers beginning a KKH journey; the F-7 and F-6 sectors have a good range of mid-range options.

Besham and Chilas

Both towns have basic guesthouses and PTDC (Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation) motels. The PTDC motels are reliable if unexciting — clean rooms, hot water, and a restaurant. Book ahead in peak season.

Gilgit

Gilgit has the widest range of accommodation on the northern highway. The Serena Gilgit is the most comfortable option; the Madina Hotel and several guesthouses in the bazaar area offer good value for budget travellers.

Hunza (Karimabad)

Hunza has the best accommodation on the KKH. The Eagle's Nest Hotel, perched above Duikar with panoramic views, is the most celebrated; the Hunza Serena Inn in Karimabad is comfortable and well-located. Book well in advance for April (blossom season) and July–August.

North of Hunza

Gulmit and Passu both have small guesthouses — basic but adequate. The Passu Inn is a long-standing traveller favourite with a terrace view of the Cones.

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Safety on the Road

The KKH is a public road with the same hazards as any mountain highway — landslides, narrow sections, oncoming trucks, and unpredictable weather. The Pakistan trekking safety guide covers altitude and emergency protocols in detail; for road travel specifically:

Drive defensively. Pakistani truck and bus drivers are experienced on this road but drive fast. Give way to larger vehicles on narrow sections — they will not slow down for you.

Travel in daylight. Do not drive the Indus Gorge section or north of Gilgit after dark. The road is poorly lit, landslide debris is not always cleared promptly, and the consequences of a misjudgement are severe.

Carry fuel. Fuel stations are spaced up to 150 kilometres apart in the northern sections. Fill up at every opportunity north of Besham.

Register at checkpoints. Foreign nationals are required to register at police checkpoints along the KKH. This is a straightforward process — your passport details are recorded in a ledger — and your driver will handle it. Do not attempt to bypass checkpoints.

Carry cash. ATMs are available in Gilgit and Karimabad but unreliable elsewhere. Carry sufficient Pakistani rupees for fuel, accommodation, and food for the entire journey.

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Planning Your Trip

A minimum of seven days is needed to do the KKH justice — Islamabad to Khunjerab and back, with two nights in Hunza. Ten to fourteen days allows for proper exploration of Hunza, a side trip to Fairy Meadows, and time to absorb the Chilas rock carvings without rushing.

If you would prefer to travel with a guide and driver rather than navigating independently, our Karakoram Highway Explorer tour covers the full route with accommodation, a private vehicle, and an experienced local guide. View the group departure calendar for scheduled dates, or contact us to discuss a private departure.