Lahore to Khunjerab: Planning the Ultimate Pakistan Road Trip
From the Mughal grandeur of Lahore to the roof of the world at Khunjerab Pass, the Karakoram Highway road trip is one of the great overland journeys on earth. Here is how to plan it properly.
The Karakoram Highway runs for 1,300 kilometres from Hasan Abdal, near Islamabad, to the Khunjerab Pass on the Chinese border at 4,693 metres above sea level. It is, by most measures, one of the most extraordinary roads ever built — carved through the Karakoram, Himalaya, and Hindu Kush ranges over two decades by Pakistani and Chinese engineers, at a cost of more than 800 lives. To drive it from the cultural heartland of Lahore to the roof of the world at Khunjerab is to traverse the full breadth of what Pakistan has to offer: Mughal architecture, ancient bazaars, the Indus gorge, apricot orchards, glaciers, and finally the bare high-altitude plateau where the road ends and China begins.
This guide covers the full route from Lahore to Khunjerab Pass — distances, driving times, the best stops, road conditions, permits, and the practical details that make the difference between a smooth journey and a frustrating one.
The Route at a Glance
The classic road trip runs roughly as follows:
Lahore → Islamabad (375 km, 4–5 hours via M2 motorway)
Islamabad → Abbottabad (120 km, 2 hours)
Abbottabad → Besham (160 km, 3–4 hours, KKH begins)
Besham → Chilas (200 km, 4–5 hours, Indus gorge)
Chilas → Gilgit (130 km, 2.5–3 hours)
Gilgit → Karimabad, Hunza (100 km, 2 hours)
Karimabad → Sost (100 km, 2 hours)
Sost → Khunjerab Pass (86 km, 1.5–2 hours)
Total driving distance from Lahore: approximately 1,270 km. Allow a minimum of ten days to do it justice; two weeks is better.
Starting Point: Lahore
No Pakistan road trip begins without at least two days in Lahore. The Walled City is one of the great urban experiences of South Asia — the Badshahi Mosque, Lahore Fort, the Wazir Khan Mosque with its extraordinary tilework, the food street of Gawalmandi, and the sensory overload of the old bazaars around the Delhi Gate. Lahore is also where you will sort out any remaining logistics: vehicle checks, fuel, and any permits you have not yet arranged.
From Lahore, the M2 motorway runs directly to Islamabad in four to five hours. It is fast, well-maintained, and largely unremarkable — save it for the drive down, and take the GT Road (Grand Trunk Road) on the return if time allows, for a slower, more textured journey through Punjab.
Islamabad and the Taxila Detour
Islamabad is a logical overnight stop before the mountain roads begin. It is also the last major city with reliable international-standard facilities — stock up on any supplies, medications, or equipment you may need for the high-altitude sections.
Before leaving the Islamabad–Rawalpindi area, the Taxila Museum and archaeological site is a half-day detour that rewards the effort. Taxila was one of the great cities of the ancient world — a centre of Buddhist learning that attracted scholars from across Asia, and a site that Alexander the Great passed through in 326 BCE. The museum holds one of the finest collections of Gandharan sculpture in existence.
The KKH Begins: Hasan Abdal to Besham
The Karakoram Highway officially begins at Hasan Abdal, 40 kilometres north-west of Islamabad. The road north through Attock and Haripur is unremarkable, but the landscape begins to change as you approach Abbottabad — the hills steepen, the air cools, and the first proper mountains appear on the horizon.
Abbottabad is a pleasant hill station with a military academy and a relaxed atmosphere. It is also, since 2011, internationally known for less comfortable reasons. Most road-trippers pass through without stopping.
From Abbottabad, the road drops into the Indus valley at Tarbela and then climbs again through increasingly dramatic terrain towards Besham. The Karakoram Highway proper — the section that earns its reputation — begins here, as the road enters the Indus Kohistan gorge and the mountains close in on both sides.
Road condition note: The section between Besham and Chilas is the most technically demanding of the entire route. The road is narrow in places, subject to rockfall, and runs along the edge of the Indus gorge with drops of several hundred metres. It is not a road to drive at night or in poor weather. Allow a full day for this section and start early.
Chilas and the Petroglyphs
Chilas is a dusty, functional town at the confluence of the Indus and Gilgit rivers, and it is not a place most travellers linger. But the surrounding area contains one of the most remarkable concentrations of ancient rock art in the world — more than 50,000 petroglyphs carved into the boulders along the Indus, spanning 5,000 years of human history from the Bronze Age to the Islamic period. The Chilas petroglyphs are a UNESCO-recognised heritage site and a genuinely extraordinary thing to stand in front of.
The Karakoram International University maintains a small interpretive centre near the main petroglyph sites. Allow two to three hours if you have any interest in archaeology or ancient history.
Gilgit: The Gateway to the Karakoram
Gilgit is the capital of Gilgit-Baltistan and the administrative hub of the northern areas. It is a busy, functional city with a good range of accommodation, reliable restaurants, and the last major fuel stops before the road climbs towards Hunza and beyond. It is also where you will need to register with the local authorities if you are continuing to restricted areas — more on permits below.
The Gilgit bazaar is worth an hour of your time: the dried fruit and nut stalls, the Chitrali cap shops, and the general atmosphere of a frontier trading town that has been a crossroads for centuries. The Kargah Buddha, a 7th-century rock carving 10 kilometres from the city centre, is a short detour that most visitors miss.
Hunza Valley: The Heart of the Journey
Hunza is the centrepiece of the Karakoram Highway road trip, and for good reason. The valley — with Rakaposhi (7,788m) to the south, Ultar Sar (7,388m) directly above Karimabad, and the Passu Cones visible to the north — is one of the most visually dramatic inhabited places on earth. The apricot orchards in spring blossom (late March to early April) and the golden poplar trees in autumn (late October to early November) are among the most photographed landscapes in Pakistan.
Karimabad is the main town and the base for most visitors. The Baltit Fort, perched above the town with views across the valley, is a 700-year-old structure that was the seat of the Mirs of Hunza and is now a well-restored heritage site. The Altit Fort, older still, sits at the edge of a cliff above the Hunza River. Allow at least two full days in Karimabad — one for the forts and the town, one for a walk or drive up towards the Ultar Glacier.
Eagle's Nest (Duikar), a viewpoint above Karimabad at around 3,100 metres, offers what many consider the finest panoramic view in Pakistan: Rakaposhi, Diran, Ultar Sar, and the full sweep of the Hunza valley laid out below. The drive up is rough but manageable in a standard 4x4; the walk takes about two hours from Karimabad.
Attabad Lake, 30 kilometres north of Karimabad, was created in 2010 when a massive landslide blocked the Hunza River and submerged several villages. The result is a 21-kilometre turquoise lake of extraordinary colour, with the old KKH visible beneath the surface in places. The tunnels that bypass the landslide zone — completed in 2015 — are an engineering achievement in their own right.
Passu and the Cones
North of Attabad, the landscape becomes more austere and more spectacular. The Passu Cones — a row of jagged rock spires rising directly above the valley floor — are one of the most distinctive mountain formations in the Karakoram and a landmark that appears on almost every Pakistan travel photograph. The village of Passu itself is small and quiet, with a handful of guesthouses and the Passu Glacier visible from the main road.
The Hussaini Suspension Bridge, a few kilometres north of Passu, is a rickety wooden-plank bridge over the Hunza River that has become something of a rite of passage for road-trippers. It sways considerably in the wind. Cross it if you wish; the views from the middle are genuinely impressive.
Sost: The Last Town Before the Pass
Sost is the last Pakistani town before the Khunjerab Pass and the Chinese border. It is a small, functional place with a customs post, a handful of guesthouses, and the Sost Dry Port — the official crossing point for goods traffic between Pakistan and China. Most travellers spend one night here before the final push to Khunjerab.
The Khunjerab National Park begins just north of Sost. The park is home to snow leopards, Marco Polo sheep, ibex, and brown bears — though sightings of the larger mammals require patience and luck. The road through the park to the pass is one of the most beautiful sections of the entire KKH: wide open plateau, the Khunjerab River running alongside, and the mountains receding into the distance.
Khunjerab Pass: The Roof of the World
At 4,693 metres, Khunjerab Pass is the highest paved international border crossing in the world. The pass is open from 1 May to 31 October; outside these dates it is closed to all traffic due to snow. The border post on the Pakistani side is a modest structure with a gate, a flagpole, and a sign marking the altitude. On a clear day, the views across the Karakoram plateau are immense.
Most road-trippers drive to the pass, photograph the gate, and return to Sost the same day. If you are continuing into China, you will need a Chinese visa arranged in advance — the border is not open to visa-on-arrival for most nationalities.
Altitude note: Khunjerab Pass is high enough to cause altitude sickness in some visitors, particularly those who have driven up quickly from lower elevations. Spend at least one night in Hunza (2,400m) and one in Sost (2,900m) before driving to the pass. Symptoms of altitude sickness — headache, nausea, dizziness — should be taken seriously; descend immediately if they are severe.
Permits and Restricted Areas
Several sections of the Karakoram Highway and the areas around it fall within restricted zones that require a No Objection Certificate (NOC) from the relevant government authority. The requirements change periodically, and the situation for foreign nationals differs from that for Pakistani citizens.
As of 2026, foreign nationals generally require NOC permits for:
- Gilgit-Baltistan restricted zones — certain valleys and areas off the main KKH
- Areas near the Line of Control — particularly in Ghizer and Astore districts
- Khunjerab National Park — a park entry fee is required; the permit is issued at the Sost checkpoint
The NOC process involves submitting passport details, travel itinerary, and a letter of intent to the relevant district administration or the Ministry of Interior. Noble Voyages arranges all necessary permits for guided tours. Self-drivers should begin the permit process at least four to six weeks before departure — the bureaucracy moves slowly and last-minute applications are frequently refused.
Our Pakistan NOC permits guide covers the current requirements in detail, including which areas require permits, how to apply, and what to do if your application is delayed.
Road Conditions and Driving Practicalities
Vehicle: A 4x4 with high ground clearance is strongly recommended for the full Lahore-to-Khunjerab route. A standard saloon car can manage the motorway sections and the main KKH in good conditions, but will struggle on the detour roads, the sections above Gilgit, and any route that takes you off the main highway. A Toyota Land Cruiser or similar is the vehicle of choice for experienced KKH drivers.
Fuel: Petrol stations are available in all major towns — Abbottabad, Besham, Chilas, Gilgit, Karimabad, and Sost. Between towns, particularly on the Besham-to-Chilas section, stations can be sparse. Carry a full tank and a spare jerry can north of Gilgit.
Driving style: The KKH is a two-lane road for most of its length, with sections of single-lane track, blind corners, and no barriers on the gorge sections. Pakistani truck and bus drivers are experienced on these roads; foreign drivers should be cautious, drive slowly, and never overtake on blind corners. Rockfall is a genuine hazard, particularly after rain.
Mobile coverage: Telenor and Jazz have reasonable coverage along the main KKH as far as Hunza. North of Karimabad, coverage becomes patchy. Sost has coverage; the road between Sost and Khunjerab does not. Download offline maps before you leave Gilgit.
Accommodation: The main towns — Abbottabad, Besham, Chilas, Gilgit, Karimabad, Passu, Sost — all have guesthouses ranging from basic to comfortable. Karimabad has the best selection, including several well-regarded mid-range hotels with mountain views. Book ahead in the peak season (June to September); outside peak season, walk-in is generally fine.
Best Time to Drive
May to June: The pass opens on 1 May. Spring is excellent — the apricot blossom is over but the air is clear, the roads are quiet, and the mountains are still snow-capped. Temperatures are comfortable at lower elevations and cool at altitude.
July to August: Peak season. The road is busiest, accommodation fills up, and the monsoon brings occasional rain to the lower sections. The mountains are spectacular but haze can reduce visibility. Book well ahead.
September to October: The best months for many experienced travellers. The summer crowds have thinned, the autumn colours in Hunza (late October) are extraordinary, and the weather is generally stable. The pass closes on 31 October.
November to April: The pass is closed. The KKH south of Gilgit remains open, and Hunza in winter has its own austere beauty — but Khunjerab is inaccessible.
Guided vs Self-Drive
The Karakoram Highway is one of the few routes in Pakistan where self-drive is genuinely feasible for experienced travellers. The main road is well-signposted, the towns are spaced at manageable intervals, and the local population is accustomed to foreign visitors.
That said, a guided tour offers significant advantages: permit arrangements handled in advance, a local driver who knows the road conditions and the shortcuts, accommodation pre-booked, and the kind of access to local communities and off-road detours that is difficult to arrange independently. Noble Voyages runs guided Karakoram Highway tours with experienced local drivers and full permit support — see our Karakoram Highway Explorer tour for details.
For those committed to self-drive, our Pakistan trekking safety guide covers the broader safety considerations for independent travel in the northern areas, including emergency contacts, insurance requirements, and what to do if things go wrong.
A Note on the Journey
The Karakoram Highway was built at extraordinary human cost — the memorial at the Khunjerab Pass lists the names of the Pakistani and Chinese workers who died during construction. To drive it is to travel through a landscape that was, for most of human history, accessible only to the hardiest of traders and explorers. The Silk Road passed through here; the armies of Alexander and Timur moved through these valleys; the Buddhist pilgrims who carried the sutras from India to China crossed these passes on foot.
That history is present in the landscape in a way that is difficult to articulate but impossible to miss. The road makes it accessible. The journey is still, in the best sense, an expedition.
Noble Voyages operates guided Karakoram Highway tours with full permit support, experienced local drivers, and pre-arranged accommodation throughout the route. Contact us to discuss a tailor-made itinerary.
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Written by
James Whitfield
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