Two Days in Lahore: A First-Timer's Guide

Lahore is not what most people expect. Pakistan's second city — and its cultural and intellectual capital — is a place of extraordinary energy, extraordinary food and extraordinary history. It is also, by any measure, one of the great cities of the Islamic world.

The city has been continuously inhabited for at least two thousand years. It was the capital of the Mughal Empire under Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan. It was the seat of Sikh power under Ranjit Singh. It was the cultural heart of British India. And today it is a city of twelve million people, still defined by the monuments its rulers left behind — and by a food culture that is, in the opinion of many who have eaten their way across South Asia, the finest on the subcontinent.

Here is how to spend two days.

Day One: The Walled City

Start early — before the heat builds and before the bazaars get busy — at the Delhi Gate, one of the thirteen original gates of the Walled City. The gate was built in the sixteenth century and has been restored to something close to its original appearance. Walk through it and you step into a different world.

The Walled City of Lahore is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most densely inhabited historic urban areas in the world. Its lanes are narrow enough to touch both walls simultaneously; its buildings are stacked five and six storeys high, their wooden balconies almost meeting overhead. The smells — spices, woodsmoke, diesel, jasmine — are overwhelming in the best possible way.

Make your way to the Wazir Khan Mosque, built in 1634 and considered by many to be the finest Mughal mosque in Pakistan. Its tilework — intricate geometric patterns in turquoise, cobalt, yellow and white — is extraordinary. Arrive before 9am and you will have it almost to yourself.

From the mosque, walk north through the bazaars to Lahore Fort. The fort was built and rebuilt by successive Mughal emperors and contains some of the finest Mughal architecture in the world: the Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors), the Naulakha Pavilion, the Diwan-i-Khas. Allow at least two hours.

The Badshahi Mosque

Directly opposite the fort, across the Hazuri Bagh garden, stands the Badshahi Mosque — one of the largest mosques in the world and, in this writer's opinion, one of the most beautiful buildings on earth.

Built by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in 1673, the mosque can accommodate 100,000 worshippers in its courtyard. Its red sandstone facade, inlaid with white marble, glows in the afternoon light. The four minarets — each 53 metres tall — are visible from across the city.

Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside prayer times. Remove your shoes at the entrance and cover your head (scarves are available to borrow). The interior of the prayer hall, with its marble floors and painted ceiling, is breathtaking.

Day One Evening: Food Street

Lahore's Food Street, in the Gawalmandi neighbourhood, is one of the great street food experiences in Asia. It opens in the evening and runs until well past midnight, with dozens of restaurants and stalls serving the full range of Lahori cuisine.

Start with nihari — a slow-cooked beef stew that has been simmering since the night before, served with naan bread and a scattering of ginger and green chillies. Follow it with paya (trotters), karahi (a wok-cooked meat dish), and seekh kebabs from the charcoal grill. Finish with kheer (rice pudding) or jalebi (deep-fried syrup-soaked spirals of batter).

Eat too much. You will not regret it.

Day Two: The Shalimar Gardens and Beyond

The Shalimar Gardens, built by Shah Jahan in 1641, are a masterpiece of Mughal garden design — three terraced levels of fountains, pools and pavilions, designed to represent paradise. They are at their best in the early morning, when the fountains are running and the light is soft.

From the gardens, make your way to the Lahore Museum, which houses one of the finest collections of Gandharan Buddhist art in the world, as well as an extraordinary collection of Mughal miniature paintings. The museum's most famous exhibit is the Fasting Siddhartha — a second-century sculpture of the Buddha that Rudyard Kipling described as "the most perfect thing in stone" he had ever seen.

In the afternoon, visit the Anarkali Bazaar — one of the oldest bazaars in South Asia, named after a legendary courtesan who was supposedly bricked up alive by the Mughal emperor Akbar. The bazaar sells everything from bridal jewellery to spices to hand-embroidered textiles. Bargaining is expected and enjoyed.

Practical Notes

Getting there: Lahore is served by direct flights from London, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Doha and most major Middle Eastern hubs. The airport is 20 minutes from the city centre.

Getting around: Hire a driver for the day — it is inexpensive and makes navigating the Walled City much easier. Your hotel can arrange this.

What to wear: Lahore is a conservative city. Men should wear long trousers; women should cover their arms and legs and carry a headscarf for mosque visits.

When to go: October to March is the best time to visit. Summers are extremely hot (40°C+) and humid. Lahore is included on most of our Pakistan tours, and we can arrange standalone city breaks on request.